Day 102

Mile 1811.9 to mile 1840.3

PCT Miles: 28.4 (45.4km)

Total Miles: 1840.3 (2944.5km)

Around midnight a deer 🦌 started to wander around my tent. They’re known to come at night to lick 👅 or chew on your trekking poles handles or backpack straps). I tried to send them away a few times but at some point I just gave up and sent back to sleep. My stuff seemed untouched in the morning.

When I finally woke up I was a bit in bad mood. My Garmin was acting a bit weird and I was anxious about the fire ahead: the only info I had was from this random girl at the trail magic two days ago who told me that the PCT would be closed earlier than we were expecting: at mile 1824, at the junction with the Crater Lake Rim Trail.

Instructions were unclear, so I hiked fast in the morning. On the way I met Bilbo, English 26-years old dude. I had never seen him before. We hiked together for about one hour and we chatted during that time. Or, better said, Bilbo chatted with me. He told me about his life back in England, his time in the army, how he wanted to be deployed in Iraq during covid, his misfortunes with women and jobs and his aspirations to become a paramedic. He told me a lot.

He exited the trail earlier, afraid that the trail would be closed ahead and we would have to turn around and go back.

The trail was indeed closed at mile 1824.0 but I the alternative was to take the Crater Lake Rim Trail, which I did, arriving at the restaurant at Crater Lake Park parking lot at 11am. I was so looking forward for having breakfast AND lunch there. Unfortunately the kitchen was closed and I got fries with cheese and pre-packed salad 😐. I had free refills of tea and coffee though.

I stayed there for three hours charging my devices, drinking 3 liters of tea and almost 2 of coffee, using the amazing miracle that are flush toilets 🚽. Most importantly, I was trying to figure out a plan to go around the fire and arrive at Shelter Cove (80 miles ahead) tomorrow. My resupply package is there and I currently have less than one day of food.

The Rim Trail was actually very beautiful and enjoyable to hike for the first few miles. After that though the smoke started to thicken and I could feel the smoke on my sore eyes and throat. Not much I could do at this point, I kept hiking.

In the meanwhile I got a message from Free Mile, a hiker that I’ve been leapfrogging with and to whom I talked to at the Crater Lake “Restaurant”. He said he had secured a ride for us tomorrow at noon from highway 138 (8 miles from where I’m camping tonight) to Shelter Cove. Awesome!

The trail from tonight’s campsite to highway 138 is actually closed, as part of the same closure from earlier today. To get there, we will do a 8 miles road walk, parallel to the PCT.

Arrived early at camp and the air quality here seems ok. On my way here I rationed my snacks and I only ate half of my dinner tonight, just in case. For tomorrow, until I get to Shelter Cove, I have half a dinner and three snack bars (which should be more than enough).